I've always had this problem when I create images using GIMP, where any red I use gets distorted on upload and looks blurred. I usually convert to JPEG, but have tried using BMP and PNG and it makes no odds. It only does it with red.
Why this happens with red only? Or tips for how to stop it? I know there is some compression involved but it's fine with every other possible color.
how do I make an image look more clear... I have an image I want to put on Facebook, it isn't blurry or anything, but I want to make it look like the best image I have on Facebook, it's going on my profile pic, how do I adjust the clarity of an image to make it look super nice...
I was quite surprised this image I found was an indexed color profile... when I was new (and dumb) to Gimp and images in general I used to save transparent gifs rather than transparent pngs... because I didn't know PNGs could be transparent but Gimp would warn me about that it would convert to indexed and I'd lose A LOT of color & clarity... none of my indexed images were very clear nor this colorful... how is it possible to obtain such color and clarity in an indexed color profile like in the image attached?
I have a .png image that is 38 pixels wide and 30 pixels high. I would like to enlarge this image to 64 x 64 pixels and also 100 x 100 pixels size, but when I try to do this, the image becomes blurred. The file image is attached. It's a hamburger.[/color]
My .JPG exports look more vibrant and contrasty when viewed on Flickr and Facebook. I didn't have this issue until I calibrated my monitor. I recently purchased a new monitor (Dell Ultrasharp U2711) and went with the factory calibration for awhile. Using the factory calibration my test prints were acceptable for color but the prints came back a little too dark so I decided to calibrate the monitor with an Xrite i1. I haven't submitted test prints with the new calibration on the monitor yet but I have exported and uploaded some .JPG's to Flickr and Facebook and they look way more vibrant and modestly more contrasty than they do in Lightroom.I want others to see my images the way I intend them to.
When exporting the images I have always selected sRGB as the color space. I tried selecting the monitor profile as the color space for the .JPG's but it didn't make a difference. The exported .JPG images looked the same on Flickr and Facebook. I also tried using a color space called sRGB IEC61966-2.1 but it did not correct the boost in saturation and contrast that I am seeing now either.
I want my exported .JPG's displayed on Flickr and Facebook to look the same as they do in Lightroom. I had no problems with this when I first got the new monitor and was using the factory calibration. It's only become a problem since calibrating the monitor with the i1. I don't think I can go back to using the factory calibration but even if I could, eventually I am going to have to calibrate my monitor.
Any user who uses Facebook to showcase image galleries knows that Facebook changes how images are displayed from time to time. One month it will be on a black background and the next on a white background. And then they put overlay's on top of your images and they change things around whenever they wish. There is not rock solid consistency from Facebook on how they display your images across devices or over time.
What I am trying to do is to add some consistency to how my images are displayed by adding my own border to my images.
Ideally, I would want Lightroom to add a border for me based on some setting under the export manager. But as far I know there is no setting to do this? (Why doesn't lightroom have any border options anywhere yet for anything it exports? This would be relatively simple I think.)
Here is the only way I know how to solve my issue.
First, my other considerations: I want to keep my original images in my catalog in tact and as is w/o a border and with layers if it is a .psd file. I do NOT want to destructively add a border to the catalog images, only the images that end up on Facebook. I also want to add my watermark image to the final image so that it is done as the last step so that the bottom part of my watermark shows my web site address over the white border on the bottom of the image. Using a droplet and the watermark in the same step does not work properly because it applies the watermark before it runs the action, not after.
I have created an action to add a x pixel white border by: Merging (flatten) all layersCreating a new unlocked background "image" layerExpanding the canvas by x pixels.Creating a new white filled layer and moving it to the bottom of the layer's pallet.Adding a 2 pixel black inside stroke to my image layer and adding a drop shadow. I created a droplet from this action and put it in the droplet folder for LR.
Now for the repeated steps that I am going through...
Select the images that I want to write to Facebook.Export these images to a new folder using the droplet.Import the folder of all of these images back into Lightroom.Move the new images with borders on them into the correct LR FB publish service.Publish the photos using the sharpening and watermark settings.Delete the .psd files created in Step #2.
The steps that I would like to avoid are #2, #3, #6
I created an image using the new Gimp 2.8 update, but when I try to upload the image to Facebook it gets all blurry. Any other photos I upload are fine, and I made another image in Gimp 2.6 of the same size (2400 pixels x 1800 pixels) which uploads normally, but for some reason no matter what I do the new picture made in 2.8 always uploads blurry.
I exported the image to jpeg format (although I also tried png) without messing with the export settings at all. Do I need to change them to make it upload to Facebook normally?
I am trying to make a logo form Facebook page. The purpose of the page is to cover beauty pageants from around the globe, now I am confused how should the logo be like should I have a tiara or a image of a beauty queen or a plain simple logo.
The problem is that when I put a 2minute film in AVI format it works great, but I want to put a piece of it, so I use option to cut the film and I'm doing from it let's say 30s clip. The problem now begins, because when I play this clip in "Clip" option tagged I got the sound, when I change it to "Project" the sound vanishes... Using full film the sound is available in "Clip" mode and "Project" mode.
I have recently installed the newest AC Architecture. Unfortunately I have some problem with tools in one palette CHANGE.
When I choose one of them (f.e. sign door or sign window) I get this kind of allert that "I can not find the tool in the current workspace". I have no ide what can be a problem.
More over on my friend's computer all this tools work correctly but only from the ribbon (it isn't possible to use this tool directly from command space).
Increasingly, I've been concerned about the lack of quality control on Blurb books. This is especially problematic with cover printing and less so with book content pages. Two ideas come to mind.
Are there other Printers that can print from the PDF version LR can export? If so, then I can export to pdf and send to other printers or
Can Adobe add other Printers, not just Blurb to the publishing options in LR4?
I began tweaking things up with proof setup, and when the "preserve RGB numbers" box is unchecked, the bluish tint is gone, but still the canvas was different from the original image because it appears to be slightly desaturated compared to the original image. The original image appears normally everywhere else, and that includes the photo viewer, the browser, the library, and such.
It even appears normally in smaller previews on the menu by the side and in the Adjustments>Variations box. The only difference is the canvas, and when I looked up the problem, it either had no response, or it mentioned monitor calibrating, and I've already tried that so I already know the monitor is not the issue! I even tried deleting the preferences file and relaunching Photoshop. The problem still persists. I have looked everywhere online, and I cannot afford clinking more urls.
The text was only enlarged for those who have a hard time reading small text, or those who do not even pay much attention, for that matter. [[ and reverted by an admin who actually wanted to try and read what you wrote ]]
The original image.The photoshop window with troll canvas in the middle.The Adjustments>Variations window. Notice everything still is fine over here.Another proof setup option. Again, the canvas's trolling persists. Every setup option was either this or that dark blue tint.
I have been doing a lot of work on posters (24x36) and banners (usually 96x24). Both the banners and posters are viewed closely (within 5 feet) and need a good resolution for viewing and clarity. However, I have been working at full size with these images (24x36 @ 300ppi) and it can become painfully slow to do this. Do you have any suggestions for reducing the file size (or resolution size) to make the work process quicker without losing quality?
I am new to PS and I need a bit of help...I have a pciture document all set up and the text on top of it. It looks good on the screen but when I zoom in the letters are fuzzy. It prints out that way too. I know it is not my printer because I have tried other documents I have and they come out crystal clear. Does anyone know why the text is fuzzy and not clear?
I am resizing images for thumbnaills. They need to match existing thumbnails in a little gallery. I sized them exactly like the existing thumbnails, but the image content looks smaller. I looked at every setting I could think of and couldn't figure out how to enlarge the content of the thumbnail. I have attached both images so you can see my problem. I am not artistic so I don't know how to minipulate perspective.
I am trying to put together a business card for myself. On the business card is my logo along with a background and text. My problem is when i print the card the text and pictures look grainy or pixelated, I am missing the smooth edges that I am looking for. I have noticed that everything in photoshop looks a little grainy to me as well.
I want to recreate the Clarity effect but in Photoshop CS6.. I know I have it in Lightroom and Camera Raw, but for academic purposes I need to create the same effect but using ONLY Pohotoshop CS6...
I have issues with clarity on printing text I have created in Photoshop. All looks clear on the screen but when I print it, the images are nice and crisp but the text is almost blurry?
Latest issue (need HELP ASAP): When creating text in a separate file and copying the layer to another file... why is the image so small? I created some chrome text and when I copied the layer to my file with the image it was like the size of a pin! Is this why I am losing clarity when printing?
I have been blowing up images (pictures, drawings, art) recently but am having difficulty in defining the colours and edges in them art for silkscreening. When i blow it up the resolution goes way down and i want to make things as clear as possible. So is there any tips out there for getting that blur out of my life.
I'm working my way through Scott Kelby's 7-Point book and in lesson 7, I'm directed to adjust the clarity slider in Camera Raw but it's just not there! I see vibrance and saturation but no clarity. Can anyone help me find this baby?
Why does the clarity slider seem different to me in LR4 (4.1 RC actually)? IN LR3 I loved that thing. I would ramp it up quite a bit with many photos. It would give it a nice crisp look. Now it seems as if it just makes my shots look like they have too much contrast. Also, when using the clarity brush, many times it seems as if where I paint it on it actually lightens it up. I havce had to look as see if I had the exposure tool on instead.
Also, I swear a "medium contrast" tone curve setting is different now as well. This was the default setting in LR3. Now default is linear. But if I apply a medium curve from the drop down, it looks over cooked? What the heck? Are these things just me? BTW I am working RAW files.
I recently took some Milky Way photos and was attempting to process them in Lightroom. Many of the effects I am using are hardly doing anything. I'll use clarity for an example.
I typically use the adjustment brush to add effects like clarity soley to the Milky Way. I find a setting of 40-60 is usually sufficient. Sliding the scale from -100 to 100 is DRAMATIC, making the Milky Way overly "pop" in a disgusting, artificial manner.
However, on my most recent batch when I applied a clarity of 50 I could hardly tell. Sliding the slider from -100 to 100 had a very small difference. Other effects are behaving similarly.
When I go back to my older photos the brushes seem to work. However, any of these new photos (which have various exposures settings) all behave similary in that I just can't get the effects to do much. The originals of my older photos and my new photos look comparable.
I have an EPS file that I am placing in Indesign doc. The image looks great in Illustrator, but in InDesign once placed there is a wave pattern to the colours (like an old tv) – not a smooth gradient. Is this a color profile problem? Or issues with how to maintain a vector image quality when importing into indesign? Upon export to PDF, again the EPS file exports fine, but InDesign export the colors aren't smooth (see sample images). The color is formatted for print (Fogra 39) for both.
changing the working space to setting for print in InDesign. Under “placed content” should keep existing assignments, enable all profiles, disable all profiles be selected?
I need to use a couple of screen shots in an e-learning course. The screen shots contain text and when I try to reduce the sizes of these images the text becomes fuzzy. I've just worked out how to reduce an image size in Photoshop.
(I'm not the most proficient user; I bumble through processes when I need it.) I've used 'bicubic' and 'bicubic sharper' in the reduction process, but both produce a fuzzy appearance. Is there a way that I can reduce these images while retaining as much textual clarity as possible? images have not been created in Photoshop. And I'm not sure if it makes a difference, but I'm using SnagIt for my screen grabs.